Color Biology Slides Hue Chemists Series
Color & Hair
Biology Science
Mastering the physical canvas of hair structure, natural pigments, levels of lift, and the chemistry of color neutralization.
Session 1.1: Core Chemistry
Interactive Notebook Companion
The Hair Canvas: Anatomy
01 / 07
To master professional color, you must understand the microscopic layers where chemical changes happen.
Cuticle Layer
The translucent outer scale layer. Chemicals must raise this layer to deposit or lift color from within.
Cortex Layer
The powerhouse of the hair. Holds 90% of total strength, weight, and houses the natural melanin pigment grains.
CUTICLE
CORTEX
MEDULLA
Color actions happen almost entirely in the Cortex .
Identify these layers in your Guided Notes diagram.
Natural Pigment: Melanin
02 / 07
Eumelanin Dark Pigment
Granular & Large
The black and brown pigments of the hair cortex. Because of their large molecules, they are easier to lift and break down during lightening.
Dominates natural levels 1 (Black) to 5 (Light Brown)
Pheomelanin Warm Pigment
Diffuse & Dense
The red and yellow pigments. These molecules are small, tightly packed, and scattered densely. They are highly resistant and hard to break down.
Remains as underlying warm tones during lifting
Why does dark hair turn red-orange first when lightened? That is pheomelanin revealing itself!
The Levels of Lift Matrix
03 / 07
As hair lifts from dark to light, it reveals predictable, underlying warm pigments that require neutralization.
10
Pale Yellow
Platinum
9
Yellow
Very Light Blond
8
Yellow/Gold
Light Blond
7
Orange/Gold
Medium Blond
6
Orange
Dark Blond
5
Red/Orange
Lightest Brown
4
Red
Light Brown
3
Dark Red
Medium Brown
2
Red/Brown
Dark Brown
1
Black
Black
Level 10 has the least pigment; Level 1 has the absolute most.
The Salon Color Wheel
04 / 07
R
B
Y
O
V
G
neutral
Law of Color
Color relationships are absolute. Understanding primary and secondary positions determines exactly how we manipulate shades in the chair.
Warm Tones
Red, Orange, Yellow. Reflect light, appear lighter, add vibrancy.
Cool Tones
Blue, Violet, Green. Absorb light, appear darker, calm warmth.
You will color and cut out this precise 12-segment wheel in your printable pack.
Complementary Neutralization
05 / 07
To neutralize an unwanted warm undertone, look directly opposite it on the color wheel.
Unwanted Tone: Yellow
Yellow Brass
Toned with Violet
Unwanted Tone: Orange
Orange Copper
Toned with Blue
Unwanted Tone: Red
Red/Crimson
Toned with Green
Neutralization always leads to a neutral brown, blonde, or gray.
Assembly Instructions
06 / 07
Prepare your physical interactive notebook by assembling today's physical cut-out components.
1
Complete the Color-In Wheel
Use colored pencils to shade the 12 wedges of the color wheel template accurately.
2
Cut & Assemble the Wheel Foldable
Cut along the solid lines and fold along the dotted lines. Glue down the anchor tab.
3
Insert the Lift Slider
Cut out the levels sleeve and slide strip. Insert the slider to create a sliding level reference.
Cut & Glue Lab
Required Tools:
✂️
Scissors
🧪
Glue Stick
🎨
Pencils
Follow teacher demonstration closely!
Estimated hands-on assembly time: 15-20 minutes.
Color Biology Guided Notes HAIR BIOLOGY & MELANIN
Hue Chemists Guided Notes • Part 1
NAME:
DATE:
1
The Hair Canvas: Architectural Layers
Fill in the blanks using descriptions from the slides. Complete the definitions of each architectural layer.
A
B
C
Cross-Section Profile
Layer [A]: Cuticle
The translucent outer _______________ layer of the hair. Hair color chemicals must _______________ this layer to reach the pigments inside.
Layer [B]: Cortex
The middle layer holding ____________% of total strength. It contains the natural _______________ pigment which is oxidized during lifting.
Layer [C]: Medulla
The innermost core layer. It plays _______________ role in chemical services.
2
Melanin Chemistry: Eumelanin vs. Pheomelanin
Eumelanin
• Colors produced: _______________ & _______________.
• Size of pigment grains: _______________ & large.
• Lifting characteristics: Easy to break down because of _______________ molecules.
Pheomelanin
• Colors produced: _______________ & _______________.
• Size of pigment grains: Diffuse & _______________.
• Lifting characteristics: Tends to remain as warm _______________ during lightening.
3
The Scale of Lightness
Explain the fundamental law of natural levels of lift. Why must a colorist evaluate the natural level before formulating?
COS-CHEM 101: PROFESSIONAL LEVEL 1 PAGE 1 OF 2
COLOR THEORY & THE WHEEL
Hue Chemists Guided Notes • Part 2
NAME:
DATE:
4
The Blank 12-Part Color Wheel
Color the wheel below using color pencils. Label each wedge with its classification: Primary (P), Secondary (S), or Tertiary (T).
neutral
YELLOW RED VIOLET BLUE
5
Color Correction Matrix
Complete the neutralization table to neutralize brassy, coppery, or raw tones.
Unwanted Exposed Under-Tone Opposite Complementary Tone Resulting Neutral Tone Gold/Yellow (Level 9-10) ________________________ Natural Platinum Blond Brass/Orange (Level 7-8) ________________________
Color Biology Foldables INTERACTIVE NOTEBOOK: NEUTRALIZATION FLAP
Color Theory Printable • Part 1
CUT & PASTE PAGE
Assembly Instructions:
Color in the 6 wedges of the wheel with their respective primary and secondary shades.
Cut along the outer heavy border of the wheel. Do not cut inside yet!Fold along the inner circular dotted line (.......).Now, make cuts along the solid spoke lines to create the 6 individual flaps.
Glue down only the central hexagon (the "GLUE ZONE") into your physical interactive notebook page.
Under each flap in your notebook, write down the color that neutralizes it (e.g., Violet under Yellow).
GLUE ZONE ONLY
YELLOW ORANGE RED VIOLET BLUE GREEN
PLACEMENT: PASTE DIRECTLY UNDER "THE BLANK COLOR WHEEL" IN YOUR COMPOSITION NOTEBOOK. PAGE 1 OF 2
INTERACTIVE NOTEBOOK: LEVELS OF LIFT SLIDER
Anatomical Tool Printable • Part 2
CUT & PASTE PAGE
Assembly Instructions:
Sleeve: Cut out the "Sleeve Template" below. Fold the side tabs back along the dotted lines.Put glue only on the folded side tabs. Press it onto your notebook to form a hollow vertical pocket.
Slider Strip: Cut out the "Slider Strip" on the right. Slide it down into your notebook sleeve pocket.Pull the strip up to reveal how hair "lifts" from Level 1 to Level 10, showing the underlying pigment!
Sleeve Template
FOLD LINE - GLUE REVERSE
FOLD LINE - GLUE REVERSE
LEVEL OF LIFT INDICATOR
Cosmetology Science
CUT OUT WINDOW
(Carefully slice this rectangle out to view the levels below)
Slider Strip
▲ PULL HERE ▲
L10 | Pale Yellow
L9 | Yellow
L8 | Yellow-Gold
L7 | Orange-Gold
L6 | Orange
L5 | Red-Orange
L4 | Red
L3 | Dark Red
L2 | Red-Brown
L1 | Black
PLACEMENT: PASTE ON LEFT HAND SIDE OF PART 1 NOTES PAGE. PAGE 2 OF 2
Salon Formulas Slides Hue Chemists Series
Salon Formulas
Chemical Mixing & Mapping
Mastering developer strengths, precise mixing ratios, and professional quadrant mapping for consistent salon results.
Session 1.2: Volumetric Practice
Interactive Notebook Companion
Developer Strengths: Hydrogen Peroxide
01 / 06
10 Volume (3%)
Deposit Only
Minimal cuticle swelling. Deposits color, ideal for toning or subtle depth changes. Zero active lift.
Cortex penetration: Low
20 Volume (6%)
1-2 Levels Lift
Salon standard. Achieves grey coverage and normal deposit + subtle lifting.
Cortex penetration: Standard
30 Volume (9%)
2-3 Levels Lift
Stronger cuticle lifting. Best for heavy blonde formulations and high-lift series.
Cortex penetration: High
40 Volume (12%)
3-4 Levels Lift
Maximum swelling. High lifting capacity. Proceed with caution to preserve structural integrity.
Cortex penetration: Intense
The higher the volume, the greater the swelling of the cuticle scales.
Mixing Chemistry: Standard Ratios
02 / 06
Formulating requires strict ratios of Color Cream to Hydrogen Peroxide (Developer). Incorrect mixes result in under-processing or scalp irritation.
1:1 Ratio
Equal parts color and developer.
Standard
1:2 Ratio
Double developer to color.
High-Lift
Volumetric Mathematics
Target Mix: 2 oz (60g) of standard color.4 oz total product.
Target Mix: 1.5 oz (45g) high-lift toner.4.5 oz total product.
Always weigh ingredients in grams on a scale for professional salon consistency!
Sectioning: The Quadrant Rules
03 / 06
1 2 3 4
The standard 4-Quadrant mapping.
Clean sectioning is the secret to speed and accuracy. It prevents overlapping and guarantees saturated, uniform development.
Center-Apex Profile Part
Part hair clean from front hairline down to back nape area.
Ear-to-Ear Part
Part from the crown directly down behind each ear, splitting front and back.
Salon Formulas Guided Notes DEVELOPERS & MIXING CHEMISTRY
Hue Chemists Guided Notes • Part 1
NAME:
DATE:
1
Developer Selection Guidelines
Record the active chemical function, volume percentages, and clinical application guidelines for each standard salon developer.
10 Volume (3% H₂O₂)
• Primary Use: __________________________________
• Level Lift Capacity: _______________ levels.
20 Volume (6% H₂O₂)
• Primary Use: __________________________________
• Level Lift Capacity: _______________ levels.
30 Volume (9% H₂O₂)
• Primary Use: __________________________________
• Level Lift Capacity: _______________ levels.
40 Volume (12% H₂O₂)
• Primary Use: __________________________________
• Level Lift Capacity: _______________ levels.
2
Chemical Action Inside the Cortex
Briefly describe what happens to the natural eumelanin and pheomelanin grains when high volume hydrogen peroxide is introduced into the cortical fibers:
3
Mixing Ratios: Volumetric Formulas
Calculate the correct ratios below. Professional mixing must remain accurate to guarantee stable development.
Target Mix Size Required Ratio Color Cream (oz) Developer (oz) 3.0 oz Total Mix 1 : 1 ___________ oz ___________ oz 4.5 oz Total Mix 1 : 2 ___________ oz ___________ oz 2.5 oz Total Mix 1 : 1.5 ___________ oz ___________ oz
COS-CHEM 102: MIXING CHEMISTRY PAGE 1 OF 2
SECTIONING & MAPPING HEADSHEET
Hue Chemists Guided Notes • Part 2
NAME:
DATE:
4
4-Quadrant Mapping Exercise
Using a red pen or marker, sketch the exact division lines of the standard 4-Quadrant Salon Sectioning on the hair silhouettes below. Identify key reference points (Apex, Nape, Crown).
A: Front Profile View
Draw center vertical division
B: Side Profile View
Draw ear-to-ear division
C: Crown Back View
Salon Formulas Lab Manual COLOR FORMULATION LAB
Hue Chemists Scenario-Based Manual • Student Sheet
NAME:
DATE:
Step into the role of a professional Salon Chemist. For each client scenario below, evaluate the natural profile, determine the chemical pathway, and write down your complete technical color formulation and instructions.
CASE STUDY #1: CLIENT ELENA (Grey Coverage)
RE-TOUCH TINT
Elena has Natural Level 4 Medium Brown hair with 50% resistant grey outgrowth at the crown. She wants to maintain her uniform Level 4 look without any brassiness.
Target Level & Tone:
Developer Volume Choice:
Formula (Color Cream & Volumetric Math):
CASE STUDY #2: CLIENT MARCUS (Heavy Lift & Tone)
VIRGIN LIGHTENING
Marcus has Natural Level 5 Light Brown virgin hair. He wants to go to a Level 8 Cool Sandy Blonde. Evaluate the warm undertone revealed and formulate to neutralize it.
Target Level & Neutralizing Tone:
Developer Volume Choice & Ratio:
Formula (Color Cream & Volumetric Math):
CASE STUDY #3: CLIENT CHLOE (Deposit Glossing)
DEPOSIT ONLY GLOSS
Chloe has pre-lightened Level 9 Yellow hair. She wants to neutralize the raw yellow/brassiness and get a platinum finish. Formulate a deposit gloss.
Target Level & Neutralizing Tone:
Developer Volume Choice & Ratio:
Formula (Color Cream & Volumetric Math):
COS-CHEM 102: LAB WORKBOOK PAGE 1 OF 2
INSTRUCTOR KEY & RUBRIC
Hue Chemists Scenario-Based Manual • Teacher Resource
TEACHER USE
Expected Formulas & Clinical Rationale
CASE #1 ELENA (Grey Coverage Key):
• Target Level/Tone: Level 4 Neutral. Needs Standard/Neutral (4N) series to provide pigment depth to grey cortex.Developer/Formula: 20 Vol (6%) Developer for cuticle penetration. Mix 1.5 oz 4N + 1.5 oz 20 Vol (1:1 Ratio). Total: 3 oz.
CASE #2 MARCUS (Lifting & Toning Key):
• Target Level/Tone: Level 8 Cool Sandy Blonde. Level 8 underlying pigment is yellow/orange; opposite tone is Violet/Blue (Ash/8A).Developer/Formula: 30 Vol (9%) Developer for 3 levels of active lift. Mix 1.5 oz 8A + 1.5 oz 30 Vol (1:1 Ratio). Total: 3 oz.
CASE #3 CHLOE (Deposit/Glossing Key):
• Target Level/Tone: Level 9 Platinum Cool Blonde. Under-pigment is yellow, neutralized by Violet (9V or 9P).
Client Chemistry Slides Hue Chemists Series
Client Chemistry
Consultation & Safety
Mastering predisposition patch tests, professional scalp pathology scans, hair history charts, and interactive notebook diagnostics.
Session 1.3: Scalp & Skin Analysis
Interactive Notebook Companion
The Predisposition Patch Test
01 / 06
The law requires a patch test prior to any aniline derivative tint service. This identifies severe allergic contact dermatitis from active color dyes (PPD).
24-48 Hour Rule
Test must be applied and observed exactly 24 to 48 hours before applying actual color.
Application Sites
Apply behind the ear (post-auricular) or in the inner fold of the elbow (antecubital fossa).
Critical Safety
Positive Reaction Signs
If the client experiences redness, swelling, burning, itching, or skin blisters at the test site, do NOT proceed. Cancel the service.
Document the results in client record cards!
Record this procedure step-by-step in your Guided Notes.
Scalp Pathology & Abrasions
02 / 06
Normal Scalp
Smooth & Clear
Pale pink, clean pores, high elasticity, no scaling or flaking. Safe to apply permanent aniline dyes and high volume developers.
Verdict: Proceed with Service
Dry / Flaky
Dry Desquamation
Subtle scaling or dandruff. No active redness, open sores, or blood. Proceed with lower developer strengths to prevent chemical irritation.
Verdict: Caution / Low Developers
Abrasions Present
Contraindication
Open scratches, eczema, psoriasis flare-ups, raw skin, or head lice. Color chemicals on raw nerves cause severe chemical burns.
Verdict: DO NOT SERVICE
Never brush hair vigorously before a color service—this scratches the scalp!
The Consultation Interview
03 / 06
The client's hair profile is a timeline of physical deposits and overlapping chemical changes. Ask these questions:
Q1 "Have you used box dyes or metallic salts in the past 2 years?"
Q2 "When did you last receive a perm, relaxer, or keratin system?"
Q3 "What is your home-care maintenance shampoo routine?"
The Overlap Risk
Overlapping aniline derivative dyes onto old chemical relaxers can dissolve cortical bonds entirely, causing catastrophic breakage or "chemical haircuts."
Rule: If metallic salts are suspected, do a 1:20 test (20V + Ammonia) to check for boiling or rapid heat.
Client Chemistry Notes DIAGNOSTIC PROTOCOLS
Hue Chemists Guided Notes • Part 1
NAME:
DATE:
1
The Predisposition Patch Test
Fill in the blanks regarding the legally-required predisposition test for aniline derivative tints.
• The patch test identifies allergic reactions to chemical dye molecules, primarily _______________ (PPD).
• The test must be applied exactly _______________ to _______________ hours prior to the color service.
• Accepted testing sites include: 1) Behind the _______________ or 2) The inside fold of the _______________.
• A positive reaction is indicated by: _______________, _______________, or burning. If these occur, you must _______________ the service.
2
Scalp Conditions & Actions
Determine the diagnostic outcome for the scalp scenarios. Identify whether you should Proceed (P), proceed with caution (C), or refuse the chemical service (R).
Scenario A
Red, circular dry patches with silver scaling (Eczema/Psoriasis flare)
Verdict: [_____]
Scenario B
Clear skin, pale pink, uniform color, open pores
Verdict: [_____]
Scenario C
Subtle white dry flaking, no open blood vessels or sores
Verdict: [_____]
3
Cortex Mechanics & Cuticle Spacing
Contrast Porosity and Elasticity. What part of the hair anatomy is responsible for each condition, and how do we test them in the salon chair?
Hair Porosity
• Anatomical Factor: Cuticle scale _______________.
• Test Method: Slide fingers _______________ the hair shaft from ends to scalp. If it feels rough, porosity is _______________.
Hair Elasticity
• Anatomical Factor: Strength of _______________ fibers.
• Test Method: Hold wet hair strand, stretch gently. If it stretches and snaps without returning, elasticity is _______________.
COS-CHEM 103: CONSULTATION & SAFETY PAGE 1 OF 2
CLIENT RECORD CARD SIMULATOR
Hue Chemists Guided Notes • Part 2
NAME:
DATE:
4
Simulated Client Consultation Chart
Review the client history card below. Perform a chemical risk analysis based on the notes, and fill out your diagnosis checklist.
CLIENT: Samantha Miller
PHONE: (555) 438-9201
LAST VISIT: 4 Months Ago
Client Chemistry Foldables INTERACTIVE NOTEBOOK: SORTING POCKETS
Client Safety Printable • Part 1
CUT & PASTE PAGE
Assembly Instructions:
Cut out the Pocket Envelope below along the heavy outer lines.
Fold back the glue flaps along the dotted lines and secure them to your notebook page to form an open pocket.
Cut out the 6 Clinical Condition Cards at the bottom.
Sort and place each card into your notebook envelope based on whether it is safe to proceed or requires cancellation.
GLUE TAB
GLUE TAB
GLUE TAB
Clinical Condition Pocket
SAFETY ENVELOPE FOR NOTES SORTING
Clinical Condition Cards (Cut Along Solid Borders)
1. Raw Scratches
Scalp skin has raw brush marks near the hairline.
Unsafe / Cancel
2. Normal Scalp
Pale pink skin, clear open pores, clean elasticity.
Safe / Proceed
3. Metallic Salts
Hair has progressive color coating from old dyes.
Unsafe / Cancel
4. Dry Dandruff
Mild white dry skin flakes, zero active open sores.
Caution / Lower Dev
5. Head Lice
Nits or active parasites visible in back nape hairs.
Unsafe / Cancel
6. High Porosity
Rough open cuticles from old thermal styling damage.
Caution / Low pH Tint
PLACEMENT: PASTE DIRECTLY ON INTERACTIVE PAGE 3 IN COMPOSITION NOTEBOOK. PAGE 1 OF 2
INTERACTIVE NOTEBOOK: CONSULTATION DIAL
Client Safety Printable • Part 2
CUT & PASTE PAGE
Assembly Instructions:
Cut out the Base Diagnostic Wheel (the larger wheel) and glue its back onto your notebook.
Cut out the Selector Wheel Cover (the smaller wheel on the right) and carefully slice out the "Viewing Window."
Place the Selector Wheel precisely over the Base Diagnostic Wheel.
Push a brass paper fastener through the center points (●) of both wheels to connect them.
Spin the wheel to view each diagnostic checkpoint (Patch Test, Scalp Check, Porosity, Elasticity)!
Base Diagnostic Wheel
1. PATCH TEST
Apply color behind ear. Wait 24-48 hours. Check for redness or itching.
2. SCALP SCAN
Inspect for open sores, eczema, abrasions or pediculosis (lice).
